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Mile End Blog

Blog - Routesetting


Over the past few weeks the setters have been battling the hottest temps to give you the coolest blocs. First up to be set - the Karma Cave, slab and vert wall. A great set with one or two of our new holds managing to sneak in here or there. The setters just couldnt resist the temptation of the new grips! Now, grades always have to be taken with a pinch of salt, but especially so when its this hot. Boulder problems outside are graded for ascents in perfect conditions when friction is at its best, so trying to climb on sweaty grips in 30 degree heat is always going to feel harder. The team then headed into the Wave where grit and font esque problems were set in abundance, meaning cooler temps are essential for some ascents! Late eve or early morning is advised... This week we had our hottest, most brutal day setting yet, on the HAW and prow. It was so hot that we only just made it through the day with at least one member of the team (me) suffering from a partial meltdown. Luckily ice packs and lots of water where on hand to bring me back to life.

Next week we will be setting the Cave and Overhang, whilst the new top out boulder in the Secret Garden starts to be built. Everyone is super psyched for this so keep your eyes peeled!

Posted by Alex Lemel on 17th July 2013

Blog - Routesetting

Axis….Of Evil.

Last Wednesday, half a ton of new Axis holds made it through customs in the Netherlands and landed in our car park. A day later and they had all been counted, checked and safely stored away in the depths of the route setting cuboard. These holds will be used for our new yellow V6-V8 circuit, which will be appearing when we open the new area in the Secret Garden mid August. What with our new Volx holds and a few more deliveries still to turn up, it feels like Christmas has come early in the route setting camp. New holds are one of the most important things a wall can invest in. It gives the setters inspiration, diversity and motivation for setting the best blocs, which ultimately, gives the climber the best possible experience when they come climbing.

So, talking of route setting... Last week saw the Playground fully reset. A great area for beginners, as there are loads of easy angles and lots of easy problems. Also great for working on your bridging and stemming technique! The red slab opposite also got a re-set. Loads of jugs and a few screw ons thrown in the mix.

On Friday, Mike, Lewis and Violetta re-set the Yellow Lead Wall in the Rope Bay. Loads to go at in the 6a-6c range, so get in there and start clipping.

This week, Karma vert, Karma Cave and Karma slab will all be re-set over Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.

Posted by Alex Lemel on 01st July 2013

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